For instance: an A1286 machine can have an 820-2330, 820-2532, 820-2523, 820-2850, 820-2915, or 820-3330 most of these are not cross compatible.A: We will send out the parcel within 7 working days after you pay the order.If I have an iMac or macbook that has a firmware password, and is locked via find my mac if I reprogram the efi chip on the motherboard to clear the firmware.JiveJust. I currently record 16 channels of acoustic drums from my Focusrite Clarett 8PreX and Focusrite Octpre Mkii Dnyamic with a mid-2012 MacBook Pro into Logic.I was very concerned about any coffee residue inside of the machine, so I attempted to remove the logic board. However, the saving grace was that I take my coffee black and without sugar, and usually black coffee spills are rarely devastating.As I did last time, I took apart the computer, removed the memory DIMMS, and disconnected the battery. This time it was about an ounce of coffee instead of about twelve ounces of fizzy water.Egads! And the small piece of the connector fell on to the kitchen floor, never to be seen again. As I did so, I broke the connector between the fan and the logic board. One of the first steps in removing the logic board is to disconnect and remove the fan.My biggest concern was that I would need a new logic board.After fretting about my dear computer, I spoke with a friend of mine who works as a mechanic. Feeling defeated, I put the computer back on the desk and went on with my day. I immediately powered the computer down to prevent damaging my computer’s internals. The fan is crucial to the computer’s operation: after only a few minutes of being powered on, the logic board was very hot. It was working! There was a brief moment where the letter G didn’t work, but after another day, the G would return to working order.The good news was that my computer was working, but the bad news was that fan was not spinning.
Logic Board For 2012 Book Pro Mac Or MacbookI was able to harvest a thin strand of copper from an RJ-45 cable. I’m unsure what each does, but he guessed that two of the wires were for DC power, one was a ground, and the other was for a temperature sensor or the like.His solution worked. The fan has four wires that connect to the logic board. He suggested rigging a piece of copper wire to bridge the broken connection. I would somehow need to adhere the copper to the logic board.The obvious, albeit somewhat scary, solution would be to solder the copper to the logic board.Thanks for sharing your story. The only issue was that when I stopped applying pressure to the copper against the logic board, the fan would turn off. The fan spun and was cooling the logic board. I powered-on the computer, and it worked. Download powerpoint and excel for free on macI am sure that could be trouble.My main question though is what you mean by, ”I then inserted the other end of the copper wire into the connector.” If you look at my picture here ( ) do you mean attach the far left wire that protrudes from the connector? The plastic connector has 4 wires and I thought each attached to the logic board via the plastic holder (see the row of 4 logic board ‘dots’ below and slightly to the right in my pic).So you just made one connection to the logic board with your extra wire? And your fan is back to normal (i.e changes speed, goes off when not needed etc)?I am not at all an experienced solderer but always think with a little application a lot can be possible and I might give your method a try. I presume I can just take a 50:50 chance with this when pushing both back in (or just order a new fan so the cables are correctly assigned?). When I snapped off my connector I also managed to pull two wires from the connector (double doh). My local mac shop said I need a new logic board which of course will cost a packet. I took your picture and circled which part that is here: From the top you see a black rectangular pad, but beneath that is the connector with four wires attached to it, which connects to the socket which is supposed to be stuck to the logic/mother board.It actually looks almost identical to the fan connector with 4 wires and the socket that it plugs into.Okay, now that I clarified that, my problem is that when I was unplugging the “right speaker and subwoofer connector” from that socket, the damn socket came off of the motherboard. What do you think?Juan, thank you for this article as it is very timely.I have a similar problem where I completely tore off the socket that the right speaker + subwoofer connector. They are suggesting the equivalent (here in Sweden) of about 150 dollars for soldering each of the 4 wires to the logic board (or routing the power from somewhere else in the laptop). ![]() If you could recommend a unit that would do the best job for the type of repair I’m trying to do I would extremely grateful. I read the ifix article you mentioned, and it said to “Touch the iron to the joint that you’re soldering, making sure to touch both the copper pad on the board as well as the lead on the part.” Stupid question but would the joint be the connection between the socket and the metal teeth on the logic board? So would I heat up the metal teeth on the mother board and also the yellow vertical teeth of the socket, and then release some solder onto both of them and that’s it?What do you recommend I do? Also, are there any good soldering irons and soldering materials and any other tools that may be useful that I can get off of amazon.com? I don’t have a radio shack near me. The other guy who I was unable to contact said he used a standard solder iron with a brass spade tip, but after googling for it, I could not find a “brass spade tip” anywhere. I finished securing the bottom case.”I have never soldered before in my life, though I do have decent hand eye coordination, but I have no idea what type of soldering gun (or iron), or type of solder to use. With Brass the solder seems to stay in place.”Using the point of the spade, I applied the solder iron to each one of the four leads for about two to three seconds being careful not to melt the plastic.Without completely securing the bottom case, I turned the Mac back on and tested the speakers. Steel seems to attract the solder so it sticks to the steel, which I didn’t want as I wasn’t going to add any solder to the board. Using a 12-watt solder iron and no additional wire or solder would it be possible to reattach?To recap what Mark said, the connection looks almost identical to the fan connection depicted in this blog post (four contact points laid out in tiny parallel strips).2 Q. The socket into which the speaker cable goes is still attached but the bottom half of the socket, which sits directly on the logic board via four little strips (“teeth”), are severed (it looks to be a clean break).1 Q.
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